A green valley in summer with scattered farmhouses and a river running through it

Central Bhutan Tour

Eleven days east to Bumthang and back through the crane valley

West to east as far as Bumthang, the religious heart of the country, returning through Phobjikha, where the black-necked cranes winter.

This is the trip that gets past the three western valleys. The road east from Punakha climbs over Pele La and drops into Trongsa, where the dzong is stacked down a ridge above a gorge, and then on to Bumthang.

Bumthang is four valleys and the oldest temples in Bhutan: Jambay Lhakhang and Kurjey Lhakhang date to the seventh and eighth centuries. It is high, cold and open, with buckwheat fields and apple orchards, and it is where most of the best autumn festivals are held.

Coming back, we stop in Phobjikha. It is a wide glacial valley, unusual in Bhutan, and from late October to February the black-necked cranes are there.

The driving is real: some days are five or six hours on winding mountain road. It is spectacular, but if that does not appeal, the shorter western trips cover less ground more gently.

What stands out

  • Jambay Lhakhang and Kurjey Lhakhang in Bumthang, among the oldest temples in the country
  • Trongsa Dzong and the Ta Dzong museum above it
  • Phobjikha valley and, between late October and February, the black-necked cranes
  • The drive over Pele La with the yak pastures on either side

The itinerary

  1. Day 1 7,610 ft

    Arrive Paro, drive to Thimphu

    Met at the airport and driven up to the capital.

  2. Day 2 7,610 ft

    Thimphu

    The dzong, the museums, the market and the takin preserve.

  3. Day 3 4,100 ft

    Thimphu to Punakha

    Over Dochula, then the long descent into the warm valley. Punakha Dzong in the afternoon.

  4. Day 4 7,220 ft

    Punakha to Trongsa

    A long day: over Pele La at 3,420 m with the yak pastures on the tops, then down to Trongsa. The dzong appears across the gorge long before you reach it.

  5. Day 5 8,530 ft

    Trongsa to Bumthang

    The Ta Dzong museum in the morning, then over Yotong La into the Chhume valley, where the yathra weaving is done, and on to Jakar.

  6. Day 6 8,530 ft

    Bumthang

    Jambay Lhakhang, Kurjey Lhakhang and Tamshing on foot along the valley floor. The brewery and the cheese factory are both here if that appeals.

  7. Day 7 9,840 ft

    Bumthang to Phobjikha

    Back west over the passes and into the glacial valley, arriving in the afternoon.

  8. Day 8 7,610 ft

    Phobjikha to Thimphu

    Gangtey Goemba and the valley floor nature trail in the morning. In winter the crane hide is worth the early start. Then the drive back west.

  9. Day 9 7,480 ft

    Thimphu to Paro

    Anything missed in Thimphu, then the short drive down to Paro.

  10. Day 10 10,150 ft

    Paro: the walk up to Taktsang

    The climb to the Tiger's Nest, around five hours there and back.

  11. Day 11 7,480 ft

    Departure

    Morning transfer to the airport.

What is covered

  • All internal transport with a private vehicle and driver
  • A licensed English-speaking Bhutanese guide throughout
  • Accommodation in government-approved three-star hotels, or better on request
  • All meals: breakfast, lunch and dinner
  • All entry fees to monuments, dzongs and museums
  • Bhutan visa processing and the visa fee
  • The Sustainable Development Fee
  • All internal taxes and the government royalty
  • International flights to and from Bhutan
  • Travel insurance, which we ask every guest to arrange
  • Drinks, laundry, telephone and other personal expenses
  • Tips for your guide and driver
  • Anything not listed as included

Several days involve five or six hours of driving on winding roads. If anyone in your group gets carsick, tell us and we will adjust the stops.

Bumthang is cold at night from November onwards. Hotels there have heating, but bring layers.

On this trip